Hanoi

We spent three days in Hanoi, Vietnam after leaving Luang Prabang. We spent the first day walking around the lake in the middle of downtown, exploring monuments and an old Chinese temple. We walked to the local boutique mall to cool off for a while and spent half an hour or so gawking at the shops. I think the only time we’ve seen Louis Vuitton, Versace, and more in one spot is on the Champs Elysees!

The French Quarter (Photo  Credit: Becca)

The Opera House in the French Quarter (Photo credit: Becca)

Apparently they've got a bull statue too! (Photo Credit: Becca)

After cooling off, we walked around the French Quarter before settling down in a cafe to people-watch. The traffic in Vietnam is quite a sight! There are minimal traffic lights, many mopeds and no apparent rules. Although small always yields to big here, the moped hordes may as well be considered the kings of the road.  Motorbikes drive everywhere -- on sidewalks, the wrong way down one-way streets, through red lights, down alleyways crowded with pedestrians and bicycles….  Adding to the chaos of the motorbikes is the constant honking heard everywhere.  Cars and trucks honk as they approach other vehicles, as if to say, “I’m coming and I’m big -- you’d better move!”

Some people watching and a caramel coffee...with huge square jellies! (Photo Credit: Becca)

To cross the road is pretty tricky and requires an approach opposite of that used at home.  Instead of waiting for traffic to stop before crossing, you set out at a slow and steady pace and trust the oncoming bikes scooters, cars, and trucks to swerve around you. There is no such thing as a lull in traffic; you just have to walk across as oncoming traffic zips past. Dad, Emily, Sarah and I learned this technique quickly.  Mom was less successful.

We were surprised to see how much living Hanoi residents do outdoors in the city.  People are out on the sidewalks at all hours, dining in large groups around small plastic tables on tiny plastic chairs, socializing on freeway embankments, practicing tai chi and playing hackey sack and badminton in the park.  People are everywhere!

Later, we walked to Hoa Lo, a prison museum. Hoa Lo was called Maison Centrale during Vietnam’s time as a French colony. The French leveled a Vietnamese pottery village and built one of the largest prisons in the nation to house political prisoners and other wrong doers. During the Vietnam War, Hoa Lo was home to many American prisoners of war who were shot down in their planes.  The prison was known to the POWs -- John McCain spent some time in here -- as “Hanoi Hilton.”  We were able to learn about living conditions in the prison under both French and Vietnamese control.

The entrance to Hoa Lo (Photo Credit: Becca)

The justice building next door to Hoa Lo, originally used by the French, now the People's Court (Photo Credit: Becca)

Leaving Hoa Lo behind, we then returned to the main street circling the lake in order to go to the water puppet theater. We saw a traditional water puppet show, which combined lacquered puppets, traditional Vietnamese music and folk tales. It was very interesting to see how dragons, unicorns, tortoises and phoenixes are all considered important beings in Vietnamese folk tales.  Flames and smoke added an extra element of interest to the show.  The puppeteers stand in waist deep water and control the puppets with hidden bamboo poles and strings.

During our second day in Hanoi, the typhoon that was predicted hit us. Luckily most of the storm was directed north of us, so we only got rain for the day. We started out the day at the Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum. There, we walked in a quiet line, on red flooring, through a very cold stone building. Monitored by guards, we walked through a room that held Ho Chi Minh’s body. Surprisingly, he was not just in a crypt or coffin, but embalmed and on display for all to see under the hammer and sickle and Vietnamese flag. The guards were very strict and enforced quiet, respectful behavior.  One reprimanded Emily for walking with her hands in her pockets; this must be perceived to be disrespectful.  Walking out, we then visited the Royal Palace, Ho Chi Minh’s childhood home on stilts, the Politburo’s meeting room and the Ho Chi Minh Museum.

Ho Chi Minh's mausoleum, we weren't allowed to take pictures inside (Photo Credit: Becca) 

One of Uncle Ho's many cars, this one is a Peugot (Photo Credit: Becca)

The rain was still coming down upon exiting the museum, so we decided to go watch a movie. We saw A Million Ways to Die in The West in English with Vietnamese subtitles. Although the movie was not very good, the best part was seeing which parts the audience found funny! Later that night we had banh mi for the first time in Vietnam. It was very good!

-Becca